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Your thought of a thatched roof village is pretty correct. May not be too many motorbike rentals available as they tend to get stolen. Lots of dirt roads between the small villages too. Don't know about dangerous, I've gotten the impression that you need to carry some crisp US dollars in your pocket to buy your way out of certain situations. But for the most part, I think the people in the villages are probably very friendly and would even invite you in for a bite to eat. Plan to go myself in the next 2 years.
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