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Since the age of the Egyptian pharaohs, grandiose monuments have been erected to honor rulers and compel their subjects worship their visages long after their mortal deaths. The Soviet commitment to public demonstration of their iron-fisted power is no more apparent than in the statues and monuments left behind after Ukraine’s independence.
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In Europe, men raised their churches knowing many would never see the climax of stone and mortar. In the desert, men came upon their cathedrals at dawn or in the moonlight. Weather built these shrines on dangerous peaks with turrets like elephant’s toes close to the sun. Drawings fade into rock like the apparitions of sleep around the world and in the village of Busha in the Land of Vinnychyna, a certain cave in a rocky gorge still speaks mystery.
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Kiev is now Kyiv, at least according to the US State Department and western Ukrainians are concerned. Kyiv has long been the spelling of Ukraine’s capital for many but for Russian speaking Ukrainians living on the eastern side of the country in particular, the Russian spelling Kiev is correct. About half of Ukraine’s 4.7 million citizens are Russian speakers.
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Coined “Little Russia” by Catherine the Great, Ukraine and the surrounding southern portions of the environs were presented to Russian nobles and German compatriots in an effort to forge a global empire. Orthodox Serbs commandeered Cossack lands with the Tsarina’s assistance and Turks lost the Crimean peninsula to the Russian Empire. Centuries later, Ukrainians still strive to keep Russia at arm’s length economically and culturally. Just as Canada is not America and Scotland is not England, Ukrainians are quick to tell travelers that Ukraine is NOT Russia.
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Reach into your wallet to buy a coffee on your way to work. Pay a utility bill over the Internet. Make a purchase at your local grocery store. Ordinary acts of everyday life may be unremarkable to many but in Ukraine, using the coin or paper money in one’s wallet these days is as much a symbol of national independence as it is an execution of daily commerce.
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Bread, Peace, and Land, may once have been the rallying cry and slogan of the first Russian revolution, but in Ukraine where both Tsarist and Soviet rulers alike exploited the land and ruled the people with iron fists, wheat and bread have always been symbols of food, wealth, and most particularly independence for Ukrainians. Bread itself is an object of reverence. Indeed, the Ukrainian word for grain – zbizhzhia- is translated as the “totality of divinity”.
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“Gorgeous weather”, “Having a great time” and “Thinking of you”- the language of postcards rarely changes from culture to culture around the world. Often considered obligatory by the writer, happily read by the recipient, in a world of text messaging and email, the postcard has always been a cherished method of correspondence – especially by Ukrainians.
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Ghosts may occasionally inhabit the ancient passages of places where history was made long ago but the walls themselves record every occupant’s celebration and frustration keeping secrets for centuries. Livadiya Palace, once the summer home of the last Russian Tsar, Nicolas II and the site of the Yalta Summit in 1945, this palace’s walls could write a history book. Designed as an Italian Renaissance-style building in 1911, the pearl white stone flanked by ornate gardens is a popular destination for travelers and Ukrainians alike.
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